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Humane Society  618 Highway 136
Baraboo, WI 53913 (608) 356-2520 Fax (608) 356-2519 E-mail the Shelter The Shelter is located in West Baraboo at 618 Hwy 136, right across from the Sears Grand.  Proud Sponsor of the Sauk County Humane Society.
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Education and Outreach
Want guidance about how to have a happy adoption? There are many ways to increase your odds for success! Do this checklist:
Caring for Puppies and KittensFill out your adoption application! SCHS holds applications "open" for 6 months, so get that done. Then, if the perfect pet for you comes into the shelter, you can adopt it that very day. Do your homework! The public library system in our area has hundreds of books, videos, and dvd's to help you select the right pet-and how to correct "issues" your pet might have. There are also professional trainers in the area. If adopting a dog, contact a local dog trainer to have him/her "on board" as a resource when you bring your new family member home. Be prepaired! Before you bring your new pet home, make preparations. Purchase necessary equipment like a dog crate, brushes, and litter boxes. "Pet proof" your home by protecting valuables, putting away poisons, etc. Select a veterinarian, and make an appointment for the very day you plan to bring your pet home. Make arrangements for your pet during your absences: Do you have a good fenced yard? No two ways about it: puppies and kittens are adorable. It's easy to be transfixed by the tiny paws, tiny noses, and big bellies galloping around your home in a riot of excitement. Puppy-and kitten hood, the first six months of life, can be one of the best times in a pet's life, but it requires some diligence and special care from loving pet owners. First off, if you're in the market for a new pet, be sure to allow him/her enough time with its mother and littermates to be healthy and well socialized. Young animals should be adopted when they're ready to be socialized, somewhere between 10 and 16 weeks for kittens and 7 to 10 weeks for puppies. (See Socializing Your New Puppy.) Once you get it home, and have picked up the litter, collar, leash, pet bed, and everything else you need, you can start to be a wonderful pet parent. A Trip to the Doctor The first thing you should do with your new kitten or puppy is make an appointment to see a veterinarian. Young animals, whose immune systems are not yet running at full force, are more vulnerable to parasites like fleas and worms, as well as respiratory infections and other conditions. Your veterinarian will record your pets weight, perform a physical exam, and possibly do a fecal exam or a blood test in order rule out parasites or other potential problems. There are several conditions, such as orthopedic problems, that can be effectively treated if they are caught when animals are young, so seeing a veterinarian early is vital. It's also important that your little pet is seen by the veterinarian because it needs to be immunized. Puppies and kittens are initially immune to many diseases because of the antibodies they receive from their mothers' milk. After weaning, however, they need to receive a series of vaccines in order to develop immunity on their own. Vaccinations for kittens generally include rabies and a "combination" vaccine for feline leukemia, depending on where the pet lives and whether or not it goes outdoors. Puppies more usually receive distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, para influenza, parvovirus, rabies, and somtimes bordetella. If you've adopted your puppy or kitten from the humane society or a reputable breeder, it has probably already had the initial vaccinations. They need to continue to be vaccinated every three to four weeks, however, until they are five or six months old. After this point, you and your veterinarian can discuss how often they will need booster shots. (See Vaccinations--It's Wise to Immunize.) Kitten and Puppy-Proofing Your Home One of the most important things you can do for your kitten or puppy is give it a safe environment to live, play, and explore in. You can think of young cats and dogs much like you think of toddlers: they're not entirely stable on their feet, they'll put almost anything in their mouths, and they're curious enough to get into just about everything. With that in mind, you can take a few of these precautions to keep your home safe for your little pet. Keep toxic and dangerous materials, such as cleaning solutions, antifreeze, and medications, in a locked cabinet or in a room your pet doesn't have access to. (See Ten Tips for a Poison-Safe Household.) Don't trust an unlocked cabinet near the ground. Inquisitive kittens and pups have been known to paw doors open. Patrol your house, with an eye out for small holes or gaps in floorboards, walls, baseboards, heating vents, and anywhere else a small animal could squeeze into and get stuck. While you're at it, look over your furniture for potential hazards. Kittens in particular can squeeze into holes underneath box spring mattresses and upholstered chairs, and they can be trapped in the mechanism underneath a reclining chair. Try to remove everything in sight that is small enough to be chewed or swallowed, including paper clips, coins, rubber bands, staples, pen caps, thread, dental floss, earrings, needles, and thumbtacks. Puppies from the larger breed might even be able to swallow something as large as a pen, a rock, or a piece of silverware. Objects like these can choke animals if swallowed, or they could do a lot of damage to the digestive system. Until your little one becomes very stable on its feet, you may want to block off stairs and ledges with a baby gate or a wide piece of plywood. Remember, puppies and kittens can jump surprisingly high, so you'll want to use a tall gate. Both dogs and cats tend to think that the toilet is their own private water fountain. Small pets can fall in and injure or drown themselves when they try to drink, and automatic toilet bowl cleaners can be harmful or even fatal if drunk in large amounts or by a young animal. Keeping the toilet lid shut should ward off problems. Watch out for heavy or fragile objects placed on unstable bases. A carousing puppy could accidentally knock over an end table, for example. An iron sitting on an ironing board could also be easily toppled. Young animals have the instinct to chew, so you may want to cover electric cords with rugs or plastic cord guards, which are available at hardware stores. Some of the prettiest plants inside your house or in your yard may be poisonous to your pet. Keep azalea, daffodil, rhododendron, oleander, mistletoe, hydrangea, morning glory, dieffenbachia, sago palm, Easter lily, and yew plants out of your kitten or pup's reach, as they can all be harmful or even fatal to animals. Young animals need a safe haven to stay in when they can't be superivsed. You can confine them to a crate or take one room of the house to make it into your pet's home for when you're gone. It should include a soft, warm place to sleep, plenty of toys, and it should be regularly examined for hazards listed above. Feeding If it seems like your little one is ravenous on a regular basis, it's because it is. Young animals develop at an amazing rate, and they need a lot of calories and fat, protein, and vitamins to fuel their growth. Just after weaning (at somewhere between 4 and 6 weeks old), puppies and kittens need about twice the energy of an adult dog/cat of the same size. This need gradually decreases until they reach adulthood. Because of these high energy needs, you should feed your pet a high quality puppy of kitten food. Stay away from foods labeled "maintenance" or "adult only"; they don't contain a high enough percentage of fat and protein to meet a juvenile's needs. You can begin by setting out the amount of food recommended by the manufacturer. Keep an eye on your young animal's weight. If he/she seems to be getting thin, add more food. Most cats and dogs won't become overweight during their first six months; they're growning too fast. It's possible, though, so you can watch out for weight gain. Starting at about six months, or a little later for cats, start mixing the puppy or kitten food with an adult food. Grooming With a young animal, you have a great opportunity to make grooming into a pleasant experience for both of you. Cats and dogs don't automatically hate nail clipping, ear cleaning, and baths; they're just nervous and unused to being handled that way. It's only after a negative experience, like being held down or punished for stuggling, that they begin to associate grooming with discomfort. You can avoid this negative association by starting when your pet is young and allowing your pet to adjust gradually to the grooming process. You can make grooming fun, with lots of petting, praise, and treats. Eventually, the time you spend brushing, washing, and handling your pet may become enjoyable to both of you, allowing you to bond in a relaxed atmosphere. Handling You can start getting your kitten or puppy used to being handled as soon as you bring them home. When they are calm and relaxed, try looking in their ears while you pet them. If they becomes nervous or uncomfortable, stop until they calm down. You can also gently play with their paws, first by gently touching them, then by picking them up and massaging the pads. Get them used to having their somach touched (which is important for cats), their armpits and groin examined, their mouth opened, and their teeth touched. This will not only help your pet see this kind of touching as soothing and non-threatening, but it will also let you check for parasites, unusual lumps under the skin, and other health problems. You should start with short sessions about two or three minutes, as puppies and kittens have short attention spans and will quickly become antsy. You can build to longer sessions as your pet gets older. Brushing This is one of the easiest parts of grooming for a young pet to get used to. They may initially be a bit frightened of the brush, so you can start by simply showing them the brush, letting them sniff it, and giving them praise and a treat. Next, you can run the flat side of the brush along their body, letting them get adjusted to the rythm and motion of brushing. When you switch to the bristled side, brush often enough that you don't have to pull through mats or tangles, so the experience will be pain free. Ear Cleaning Most animals are not wild about having their ears cleaned, so be patient and give your little pet a lot of encouragement. You can start by just touching the outer rim of the ear, using a cotton ball and ear cleaning solution from your veterinarian. Trimming Toenails Puppies and kittens can grow sharp little claws very quickly, and they may need to be trimmed as often as once a week for the first few months of life. This can be a challenge with young cats and dogs, because it's difficult to see the quick, which supplies blood to the nail. Start by only snipping off the very tip of the nail. As you and your pet become more comfortable, you can start to snip the nail away in thin cross-sections, checking each layer until you see a dark area in the center. This signals the beginning of the quick. For more information on grooming your pet, see One Hair at a Time, Time to Trim the Toenails!, and Brushing Your Pet's Teeth Can be as Easy as A-B-C, 1-2-3. Once you bring your little one through their first months safely, you can be proud of your accomplishment as a pet parent. Though it can take a lot of work, raising a well-fed, well-groomed, and happy puppy or kitten is a big step toward a well-fed, well-groomed, and healthy adult pet.
The following photos were taken at the Large Animal Rescue conference held In Bristol, Wisconsin this past May. Sponsored by the School of Veterinary Medicine and the Wisconsin Horsemen’s Council, the course was led by John and Deb Fox of the Felton Fire Department in California. The conference was attended by people from all walks of life, including firefighters, veterinarians and vet techs, humane officers and the general public-numbers were kept small to optimize learning.
The first day of the conference started with in- class discussion on large animal behavior, in particular, equine behavior. The focus was on “hot zones”, patient management, animal containment and scene management. Rescue equipment and hands-on skills were introduced in the afternoon, along with the opportunity to watch real life rescue videos. It was incredible to see the predicaments some of the animals got themselves into and the fact that they were able to come out of them alive was amazing! In terms of hands on activities, I would have to say this was the best class I have ever taken. The students were provided with 500 lb model horses that we were required to manipulate from different real-life scenarios including being cast in a stall, down in a muddy pit and in an up-ended trailer. This course was one in which you got dirty and had to constantly assess available equipment, your surroundings, as well as safety. Day two started on the farm (Bristol equestrian Estates) with patient manipulation, rope systems, vertical lifts and putting rescue equipment on a horse trapped in a trailer. After these sessions a written exam followed, and then the class broke into groups in which each was given rescue scenarios to plan and present rescue proposals to the rest of the group. An incredible amount of factors need to be considered in order to put together a safe and efficient rescue and there is no one formula that fits every situation. Day three was advanced training, an intense day of review, with some more complex and multi animal rescue scenarios thrown in to the mix. The whole experience proved to be very valuable, I felt that the instructors were the best in the business and really wanted to share what they had learned with us. Leaving that day I felt I had learned a great many useful techniques that I could apply to any variety of circumstances. I have been in many educational settings and was very impressed with the level of skill and professionalism and would like to thank the organizations who made this experience possible. |
Pet of the Week
<< Back • -- Charlie
 September has rolled in and so to have the beautiful autumn colors that can also be seen in our pets of the week. Charlie, a wonderful, happy-go-lucky, lab mix is our first to charm you this week. He sports a remarkable sunny, harvest gold coat with white accents and has a friendly glint in his eyes that says “happy to make your acquaintance”. Adorable and young,(around seven months and already neutered), he is affectionate with everyone he meets- two and four footed. Charlie is guaranteed to put some “zippity-do-da” back in your day! Janie
 Back to our focus on fall colors, check out our little girl Janie. Jane is a spayed female calico around four months of age. She comes in a lovely array of colors all spilling from a soft muted gray base that is splashed with pumpkin orange and puffy clouds of white, she is a delightful sight indeed! Perky and petite, she will easily win your heart with her kind disposition. For more information on available animals you can email shelter@saukhumane.org or contact the shelter by phone at 356-2520 or check out the Available Animals. Upcoming Events
September 1st - September 30th
September 26th - 12:00 pm
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